Her Dog Defecates In The Crate

Her Dog Defecates In The Crate
A Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owner wrote to me with the following question:

“Dear Adam:

We recently got a four month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.

We can’t seem to housebreak him. I’ve tried what your book and tape said to do. He goes “#2″ in his crate. I have been doing what you suggested, but would like some advice on the crate issue. Thank you.

-Brenda

Dear Brenda:

The best solution to this problem is to build an outdoor kennel run on grass or pea gravel so that the dog can get reconditioned to eliminate on this flooring substance and not in the crate.

Otherwise, when you take him outside to go to the bathroom, you might have to wait longer to get a bowel movement. If the dog is on a schedule, make sure you get him outside after he is finished eating. If standing around waiting for him to go isn’t getting you anywhere, you might try some light play or take a walk around the yard. Exercise has the effect of bowel stimulation.

When he defecates, make sure to praise him well. You might have to spend 10-15 minutes outside encouraging him to potty, but when he does, it is worth it. If you have an outdoor kennel run or even a securely fenced yard, give him less time in the crate and have him either be under your supervision in the house or out in the kennel. If you have not done this already, you should also clean the crate with an enzyme cleaner such as Nature’s Miracle to eliminate all traces of the feces.

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: <a href="http://www.dogproblems.com" target="_blank">http://www.dogproblems.com</a>

Treat Your Cat with All Natural Cat Treats!
Author David Gilmore explains: Weanersquo;ve all seen the various major brand cat treats in the stores. They come with names we all know and packages that show happy cats wolfing down piles of the treats inside. They come in pouches or little cans and, admittedly, our cats love them. But have you ever stopped to see what is actually in these treats?

Fixing The Problem Of The Doberman Who Liked To Urinate In A Crate
A Doberman Pinscher owner sent me this question:

“Dear Adam: I loved your book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” and your web site, Dogproblems.com.

They have been very helpful.

My biggest training problem right now has to do with potty training. My dog is a 5 month-old Doberman female. About 2 months ago she had a bladder infection, so she started not making it through the night. She would pee in her crate and then whine that she had to go out. We have since taken her to the vet and given her the entire dose of antibiotics and the infection is all cleared up. She makes it through the night fine now, but if we have to lock her in her crate during the day she pees in her crate.

She doesn’t seem to have too much separation anxiety, although I remember reading somewhere that Dobermans are prone to this. We let her outside to do her business and then lock her up a few minutes before we leave and she is quiet during that time. When we get home she is asleep or quiet. We wait a few minutes after getting home during which she is quiet, maybe whines a little, before we let her out. The only problem is that there is a puddle of pee at the bottom of her crate. We leave a few toys for her to chew on while she is in there, but nothing else, no bedding just the plastic of the bottom of the crate. She doesn’t seem to mind laying in it and we usually have to give her a bath when we get home. I’m not sure if I should punish her for this cause I know the timing is WAY off, but it’s getting so frustrating I don’t know what else to do.

I should also mention that we don’t have to be gone for this to happen. If she is locked up because while we are home, she does the same thing. She is generally quiet while she is in there, but after an hour or so she will whine loudly and when we get to her, there is already a puddle.

Thank you for your help. I look forward to implementing your advice.

Sincerely,
Tim

Dear Tim:

When you remove her from the crate after she urinates, be sure to clean the area thoroughly with an enzyme cleaner. This will break down the urine at the molecular level so its scent will be completely gone, not just covered up.

You should also limit her time in the crate to lower the chances of this happening. Only leave her confined when absolutely necessary or when she cannot be supervised. Along with this, it would be helpful to limit her water intake to a strict schedule and when she does drink, take her outside and let her relieve herself after a period of time.

Depending on the dog’s condition (hot and panting versus calm and tired), water will go through their system in anywhere from 20-45 minutes. If you put her in the crate immediately after she urinates outside, she might be less inclined (and able) to use the crate as a bathroom.

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: <a href="http://www.dogproblems.com" target="_blank">http://www.dogproblems.com</a>

Should You Correct A Puppy With A Pinch Collar?
Hi, Adam!

My husband and I recently purchased a white German Shepherd. She is 12 weeks old today and quite a handful. Sometimes she can be so sweet, but other times she is actually quite vicious.

Well, I don’t know if vicious is the right word, but when I tell her “No!” she just gets more agitated and lunges at me with her teeth bared.

I got a small pinch collar since she’s a puppy but I have a question as to how it should fit. When I take 2 prongs out it is snug against her neck and I worry about it being too tight. When I only take 1 prong out, it sort of slides down her neck a little bit and she constantly scratches at it and it circles around her neck and doesn’t stay put. Which is the right fit?

She is really a handful and I think the pinch collar is a great tool, but I want to make sure it fits right so as not to cause her any discomfort.

You say in the book that you should be able to slide half a finger in there, but I guess I am just confused as to how you should judge the fit.

Please help! I’m afraid my time is running out to get her to start obeying me. She doesn’t see me as the Alpha dog quite yet and it is very frustrating to be with her for long periods of time. When I say “Duchess, come” she only comes when she feels like it. With the pinch collar, what is the best way to make sure she comes each time I call her? I don’t want to go around yanking on her neck, but at the same time she needs to respect me. Any tips you can give me on making sure she sees me as the boss would be very helpful!

Thanks,
Cassidy

Dear Cassidy:

When I refer to “half a finger space” in regard to the proper fitting of the pinch collar, what I mean is:

- If the average person’s finger is inch wide, then there should be aproximately inch of space between the end of the prong and the skin of the dog’s neck.

So, why don’t I just say, “1/4 inch of space”? Because it’s easier to judge by sticking your finger beneath the prong than it is to break out your old high school ruler.

Many of you (newsletter subscribers) are no doubt wondering why I would recommend a pinch collar for a puppy. And my answer is: I’m not. At least not for most puppies.

But there are some puppies who will not respond to a simple diversion or verbal, “No.” They will bite and cause puncture wounds on your legs and arms if they are not corrected for this behavior. So, if you’ve tried the other methods for dealing with “puppy nipping” that I’ve outlined in the book, then you’ll need to progress to a small pinch collar. (Also described in the book.)

“But aren’t they too young for a pinch collar?” you’re probably thinking.

The answer is: No.

They ARE too young for formal obedience training. (I.E., Sit, Down, Come, Heel, Stay). [This should start when you see the adult teeth come in… at aproximately 4 to 5 months of age.]

But a puppy SHOULD be corrected for biting… if you’ve found that diverting his attention to a chew toy or another activity is not working.

Why? Because the mother dog would not allow the puppy to bite her. If the pup bites her too hard, she will turn and bite the puppies neck.

From the puppies perspective, THIS HURTS.

But it does not cause damage.

And that’s why the puppy chooses not to bite the mama dog any more. Because it doesn’t feel good.

This is the same reason that it’s okay to correct a puppy for excessively hard biting with the pinch collar. The pinch collar replicates the mama dog.

Trust me on this: I’ve seen 11 week-old Rottweiler puppies and 10 week-old Jack Russell Terrier puppies who had bitten through (literally) their owners fingers with their needle-like teeth. The owners are almost in tears with the idea that they may have to put their puppy to sleep. They’ve tried all the nonsense garbage your read in the dog magazines.

Stuff like shrieking in a high-pitched voice. Or putting the puppy in the crate. Or turning your back on the dog. But none of it works on a puppy who is intent on biting down as hard as he can on your soft, human flesh.

Getting back on course… When you correct the puppy, just use common sense. Simply because your car can accelerate up to 140mph does not mean that you should or need to drive that fast. The same goes for the pinch collar. If you’re an adult and you can employ reason and common sense, then you should be able to tailor the intensity of your correction to appropriately match your dog’s temperament.

How do you do this? You test.

If you correct the puppy for biting, then next you should immediately offer him your hand again. If he immediately bites you again… then you now know that your correction wasn’t meaningful.

That’s all for now, folks!
Adam

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: <a href="http://www.dogproblems.com" title="http://www.dogproblems.com" target="_blank">http://www.dogproblems.com</a>

Learning How To Train Your New Pet
Pet owners are very loyal to their pets and there is nothing a pet owner will do to make sure their pet lives long and is healthy. Instead of buying a more than one puppy it is better to purchase a single puppy this way the puppy will have a better chance bonding with the owner and it will be easier to will bond to its owner better and will be easier to train than having many puppies. Avoid the temptation of buying two or more puppies. Depending on the breed, the best time to purchase a puppy is between 7-9 weeks of age. The puppy should get used to being around people and other dogs. Your puppy should not be allowed to roam the house freely until he is properly housetrained. A common misconception is that healthy dogs and cats must eat every day when in fact they do not. Smaller breeds are an exception, but even then pet owners must take care not to overfeed. For a little bit of responsibility, time, and money on your part, you and your family will get a lifetime of love and unconditional adoration. The positive effect a dog can have on your family is amazing. With all animals make sure the water and food bowls are cleaned regularly, the reason for this is to keep them free from germs and bacteria. Place your pets bowl so it is not in the way of walkways or in places where someone could knock into it. Keeping the area sanitized will help keep your pet healthy. Since medicines for pets are not easily distributed, it would help if you would also ask your veterinarian where the drug shops for pet care are. Many dogs and even cats become very attached to children. Parasites that are internal and external are mainly responsible for illnesses and diseases seen in the large population of dogs. The common dog flea is the number one health problem facing these pets. Exercise is every bit as vital to your pet s health and well being as good food, clean water and shelter. Eating well and getting enough exercise are as important for dogs and cats as they are for people. Vegetables and some fruit in your dog s diet and a small quantity of such can provide many of these active compounds. For any weight loss program, human or animal, diet is the first essential part. A pet tag is a very affordable way to help keep your pet around for many years to come. Pet name tags can also be chosen from a variety of materials such as stainless steel, aluminum, brass and even plastic. You want to make sure that your pet tag is made durable enough to last many years, and will not fade or rust. You want to make sure that your pet tag is made durable enough to last many years, and will not fade or rust. 90 percent of pets carrying an identification tag will return to their homes. You should always make sure your pet/dog is wearing his/her id collar tag, the contact information on the tag should be up to date just in case your dog is missing. The ID tag should have your pet s name, destination address, your name and telephone number.

David Marc Fishman is the owner of <a href="http://www.tipsquad.com">crafts</a>. Tipsquad is a new <a href="http://www.tipsquad.com">advice</a> website. It gives tips by showing by video. Another video site is the new <a href="http://www.priceriot.com">www.priceriot.com</a>

Pet Food Recipes
Author David Gilmore explains: Pretty much every pet owner at one time or another has thought about making their own pet food for their favorite kitty or dog. The store bought pet food is easy to serve, but it often looks disgusting and the preservatives and chemicals in it makes you wonder how healthy it really is. But cats and dogs cananersquo;t eat people food, no matter how much they beg for it.

Dog house training
Dog house training Lets look at this term of phrase Dog house training it seem`s to suggest you train your dog just so you keep your home clean ,but there`s far more to it than that , as i`ve mentioned in previous article`s you train your dog to be as part of the family as much as you are or what is the point of your dog being present in the first place! If dog house training is integrated in the correct way not only is the family dog rehearsed in toiletry matter`s and other behavioural element`s but will also naturally form the correct bond that will be in place for your pet dog`s natural life ! I`ve had many years of pleasure from my dog by following certain guideline`s in dog house training using dog training books , dog obedience training techniques , but wasn`t a great believer in the dog training collar personally i think it`s not as involving as signal techniques and motion control! Also a very important part of dog house training is potty training your dog which form`s the foundation of self discipline which is easyly instilled if done correctly, i`ve learn`t the best techniques and method`s on all section`s of dog house training from an amazing american woman called Dove Cresswell she`s renoun and highly respected throughout the world for her unique refreshing insight to what dog house training is all about ! Dove has an inpecable CV and credential`s that are second to none , when i visited her site i found it very easy to navigate and i could`nt believe how easy the dog house training method`s step by step where i`ve seen a great improvement in my terrier his behavior has turned so laid back it`s calming but that`s also down to Doves tip`s on diet! I could really go on forever about this hollywood dog trainer but i suggest you visit http://dog—house–training.blogspot.com to read more on her !! Dog house training.

<a href="http:// dog—house—training .blogspot.com"title="Dog training book">Dog training book</a>

Can You Really Teach An Old Dog New Tricks… Also, Dog Owner Invents Training Techniques
Adam,

I received a surprise Christmas present last year in the form of a 4 year old female shepherd mix that my wife and daughter decided I needed to replace my long time pet who had to be put down last summer. She really is a beautiful dog, but the shelter fibbed to us when they said she was good with other dogs and cats. She has been rather aggressive with them. We are 6 months into this relationship now and she is much better. I guess she is more secure now.

The one problem I have not solved is her desire to run out the door and ignore our “come” commands. All this is to ask you: Will the techniques in your book and video series work on an older dog? I’d rather not invest the money in a lost cause. We live in the Arizona desert and she won’t last long this summer if she gets out and runs off again. I’ve looked through many of your newsletters, but didn’t find any mention of age.

Thanks for your help.
Larry

Dear Larry:

Thank you for the e-mail.

Yes, the dog training techniques work on all dogs, as long as they are healthy and do not have any mobility problems.

In many cases, training an older dog is easier than training a younger dog, despite the saying that “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks,” there is definitely something to be said about maturity.

—

Dear Adam:

Please help! I am ready to give away my 6mo. old Maltese. I grew up with one of these dogs- the most gentle and affectionate dog I’d ever met so I bought one for my family at great expense. I tried to find a good breeder and had the dog shipped.

The problem is this - He growls and snaps at my 4 year old whenever he tries to pet him or pick him up, or if I’m watching saying, “Good dog, no growl, it’s OK.. ” he will not growl but struggle to get away and growl as soon as he’s down. He has bitten when I was not watching.

I tried the advice in your book and that given by others on the discussion group. For a long while my son was the only one to feed the dog, I kept him off the furniture and the kids owned the toys. Nothing seemed to help, so recently I’ve been grabbing him firmly by the scruff and growling “No” at him, then putting him in a small room by himself for several minutes. Today when I went to correct him he snapped and growled at me! He is now frightened of me and I am angry at him.

The most upsetting thing for me is that I wanted this dog to be a friend for my son like mine was for me when I was young. My son is a gentle, quiet boy who loves animals and is saddened my this. Is there any hope?

Signed,
Stewart

Dear Stewart:

I don’t know how to say this without sounding like a complete jerk, but… PAY ATTENTION AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS!

The one thing you apparently HAVEN’T DONE is to CORRECT THE DOG’S UNWANTED BEHAVIOR!!! The ‘pulling on the scruff of the neck’ is only for young puppies, 8 to 10 weeks old. It’s ineffective for older dogs.

For correcting older dogs, I spend much of the book explaining the benefits of the pinch collar. Remember the concept of motivation? Remember the notion of associating a negative/correction with the dogs unwanted behavior? Remember how I teach you to look at the corrections you’re giving and decide if they’re motivational or not? Remember page 23, page 38, page 59, page 62, page 155, page 173, page 174, page 181, page 226, page 241, and page 260 ?

I’ll quote from the book, “After you correct the dog, immediately tempt him to do the behavior again. Offer him the choice: If he does the behavior again then most likely your first correction wasn’t motivational… If he refuses to do the behavior, then praise him - as he’s just made the RIGHT DECISION.” [Page 156.]

Now, if you have a specific question about how to implement any of these techniques… then that’s another issue. But telling me that you’re confining the dog in a bedroom as some sort of “Time Out” technique is NOT something you’ve found in my book. And neither is, “”Good dog, NO growl, it’s OK…”

Again, I’ll repeat: Praise the dog only when he makes the right decision (staying calm). Do not tell him, “No growl,” if he’s already being quiet. This is SOOOO CONFUSING TO THE DOG.

It’s very simple:

The dog does something good = You say, “Good dog,” and praise. The dog does something bad = You say, “No!” and administer a correction with the leash and collar.

I can only speculate why your question is not more along the lines of, “This is what happened when I corrected my dog using the pinch collar and tab for this obnoxious behavior.”

The only reason I’m being so blunt about this issue is that it’s a central theme throughout the book. I stress over and over again the elements of timing, consistency and motivation. In fact, many readers have commented that my repetition of this concept is sometimes tedious.

Once you can explain to me how specifically you’ve used timing, consistency and motivation and applied these elements to your dilemma, you will (perhaps surprisingly) find yourself in the position of explaining to ME how you will have fixed your dog’s obnoxious behavior.

That’s all for now, folks!
Adam
Dogproblems.com

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: <a href="http://www.dogproblems.com" title="http://www.dogproblems.com" target="_blank">http://www.dogproblems.com</a>

5 Tips For Training Dogs Successfully
Training dogs is not a hard. You just need patience, dedication and some simple tactics and you will teach them successfully.

Here are five top tips on how to train your dogs successfully:

1. To avoid your dog getting confused and so that they can learn to recognize commands easily only one person should be responsible for training the dog initially. If too many people are trying to train the dog at the same time this can stop progress in its tracks.

2. You should use positive reinforcements. If the dog does something good, you should reward this behavior so that he will know that what he did was right. If the dog cannot understand or follow your commands, never push him. Dogs are not as intelligent as humans, they make mistakes. What you should understand is that they won?t easily understand your commands in just one teaching, it takes repetition to train a dog successfully. Do not scold your dog as he might develop fear which will hinder his learning and willingness to be trained. You can use treats in order to encourage your dogs, although don?t overdue it.

3. Teach commands one at a time. Try to teach him one command after the other. If he cannot absorb it, try to stay on that command only because adding additional commands will just confuse the dog. Start with the basics.

4. In executing commands, you should keep your voice cheerful so that the dog will happily follow your commands. Dogs will respond to a low and coaxing voice. If you shout out loud, he may become startled and unresponsive.

5. Train your dog in various places. If you keep your dogs in a certain place like your home, he will not be able to adjust with the environment new people. Take him to the park or through the neighborhood. This will help your dog associate with other dogs and people.

Training your dog can sometime be tough, but it will be worth it. In the end, you will be the one to benefit when your dog is trained. You don?t know he might even save your life one day and pay back everything you taught him.

Simon Oliver has an interest in Recreational Activities & Hobbies. To find out how you can get more information on successfully training your dog please visit this <a href="http://www.boxer-dog-guide.com">Boxer Dog</a> site.

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