4 Things to Think About Before Declawing your Cat
4 Things to Think About Before Declawing your Cat
Declawing is a major surgery known as onychectomy, performed under anesthesia, that removes the tip of each digit (from the first knuckle out) of the cat’s forepaws. There is a slight chance of death in the surgery, and a declawed cat may have an increased risk of infection and life-long discomfort in its paws. This surgery is not recommended for an adult animal and is considered an act of animal cruelty in some countries (see below).
People generally have cats declawed to prevent them from hunting and from damaging furniture. Rarely, vicious cats are declawed. In the United States, some landlords require that tenants’ cats be declawed.
Veterinarians are generally critical of the procedure and some refuse to perform it because the absence of claws in a cat:
1. Deprives it of its main defense abilities, including escaping from predators by climbing trees;
2. Impairs its stretching and exercise habits, leading to muscle atrophy;
3. Compromises its ability to balance on thin surfaces such as railings and fence tops, leading to injury from falls;
4. Can cause insecurity and a subsequent tendency to bite.
This operation is rare outside of North America. In Finland, Germany, the Netherlands and Switzerland, declawing is forbidden by the laws against cruelty to animals.[17] In many other European countries, it is forbidden under the terms of the European Convention for the Protection of Pet Animals, unless “a veterinarian considers [such] non-curative procedures necessary either for veterinary medical reasons or for the benefit of (the) animal”. [18] In Britain, animal shelters find it difficult to place imported cats that have been declawed and subsequently most are euthanized.
An alternative to declawing is the application of blunt, vinyl nail caps that are affixed to the claws with nontoxic glue, requiring periodic replacement when the cat sheds its claw sheaths (about every four to six weeks). However, the cat will still experience difficulties because the capped nails are not as effective as claws.
Hagar lagarto is a long time Pet lover with many articles and websites on the subject.You can get much more info at <a href=http://pet.freehostia.com>http://pet.freehostia.com</a>
Cat Teeth Care Tips
No matter the breed, cats can get a lot of teeth and gums problems. These sort of diseases are not harmless or isolated at all, eventually leading to serious systemic problems for your cat. The figures have shown that over 70% of all cats older than two years are suffering from some form of dental disease. There are two main methods of helping your cats teeth and gums stay healthy. First of all, cats must have a dental cleaning, under anesthesia, every six months. But the most important thing is home care, thus leading to less frequent veterinary cleanings, meaning less discomfort for the cat. Veterinary dental care includes annual examining of the cats teeth and gums, in order to discover any illness that can occur. Should the cat have bad breath, reddened gums, yellowish-brown tartar on teeth, this means it has gingivitis. When severe, this illness will make cats of any breed refuse eating. Most older cats have a dental problem called feline odontoclastic resorptive lesions, for short FORL. So pay attention to signs like excessive salivation, bleeding from the mouth and reluctance to chew food! The veterinary dental care aims to be both preventive and therapeutic and goes hand in hand with the home dental care. When it comes to home dental care for any cat breed, you should start by training cat to accept daily brushing or wiping of the teeth. The easiest way to do that is by starting the training while the cat is very small. With the aid of a cats specially made toothbrush, apply the bristles to the teeth at a 45-degree angle to the gums, reaching both the tooth surface and the area just beneath the gum margin. The toothpaste for humans is not good for cats, as it can be harmful if swallowed. There are many types of toothpaste for all cat breeds, so always use them, as they are flavored appropriately for your cat and is harmless if swallowed. In order to remove plaque, pet toothpastes contain enzymes and, most importantly, do not require rinsing. Sometimes you can use nothing and simply allow the mechanical action of brushing to remove the plaque. The motions must be circular, paying attention so that you get the bristles under the gum lines. The main idea is to keep in mind the fact that dental home care does not have the goal of removing plaque, but preventing it form accumulating and turning into calculus. So, try making it pleasant to your cat, and maybe it will eventually even get to enjoying teeth brushing. It is the only way of having a healthy cat from the teeth point of view at least!
Visit this great site for all the information you need on all <a href="http://www.catbreedadvice.com">Breeds of Cats</a> . The <a href="http://www.catbreedadvice.com/Cat-Breed-Pages/Bengal.html">Bengal Cat</a> is a relatively new breed of domestic housecat. Visit this site for more information.
DOG TRAINING
Training Your Dog To
Eliminate Outside
Are you stuck at a point where you do not know how to proceed with housetraining your dog? Are you desperate to stop those accidents on your precious rug? Are you spending too much on room fresheners?
Smelly poops, carpet stains, unwelcome surprises and unwanted discoveries….in short, a perfect housetraining nightmare! If you are still spending sleepless nights conspiring on how to escape, STOP!
Don t be ignorant. It’s time to arm yourselves with the knowledge to deal with the problem. In today s issue, we shall try and arrive at a definite solution to stop your dog’s unwanted behavior.
How to Train Your Dog to Eliminate Outside?
Considering that your dog is properly crate trained, it is unlikely that your crate trained dog will eliminate inside his crate. Accidents generally occur the moment you take your Dog out of his crate and leave him unsupervised. It may be advisable to keep note of your dog’s potty breaks and let him out of the crate 15 minutes before the scheduled time. Take him out to the desired place and wait till he finishes potty. Reward him soon after followed by praise.
Note : To help your Dog acclimatize to potty outside, it is important that you take him to the same place everyday. This will help him build association through smell while it also conditions him to go potty at a given time of day, at a given place.
Once conditioned, it is easier to train your Dog to go on command. Continue letting your dog out of his crate before his scheduled time, however, refrain from taking him outside. Remember, association is important at every step of training. Verbal commands and physical gestures combined are helpful in most cases. So, when you teach him to go on command, accompany by pointing towards the door.
You may use commands such as “Out” or “Outside”. Repetitive use of these two words teaches your Dog to go out every time you give this command.
Note : It may be helpful to employ words commonly used in the household so that association is easy and your dog understands.
You can train him to bark, scratch the door or ring a bell each time he wants to exit. When you sense he wants to go, take him to the door and wait till he performs the desired behavior before praising him. Let him out once he s through with asking.
A dog is a creature of habit. Know that…
Since your Dog has been conditioned to go out at a certain time in day, he will let you know when he is uncomfortable.
By this time however, he is accustomed to eliminating in a particular place, therefore he will hold from eliminating inside or any other place other than his usual.
When you give him the command and let him out, he will go anyway. By repeating the same process everyday, you will help him associate between the variables……time, place and command.
Ringing the bell, to most, is a substitute for verbal commands. Instead of shouting “Out”, ring a bell (tied to your door) and open the door. Once you have done this over days, your Dog will know that ringing the bell means being let out. Soon he will be ringing the bell as a signal to open the door.
Note : Ringing the bell may not always mean that your dog wants to eliminate. If your dog feels like a walk, he will ring the bell to go outside. At least, you will avoid accidents and perhaps make a few extra miles.
It is a rarity but a possibility nevertheless…even though the aforesaid training was imparted correctly…it is possible that your Dog may not eliminate in the first instance you take him out. What do you do under such circumstances? Very simply…bring him inside, but don’t let him free as yet. Instead keep him on the leash and be more careful than usual. Constant supervision will help avoid accidents. Take your dog out at regular intervals, or when he shows the first signs of discomfort.
Note : Puppies are usually hyperactive. They need to go out:
Every time they wake up
Immediately after each meal
When they are generally active and playful
It may be a good idea keep puppy diapers handy for young puppies (1 to 3 months old). Puppies older than 3 months can be brought under the training regime.
Training should be gradual. Do not speed the training process. It is advisable to carry on with the first employed training technique even when you are absolutely confident your Dog has mastered it. Graduate to the next step with ease.
If an accident still occurs…
If you catch your dog in the act, do not surprise him or stun him by shouting in disgust. Let him know your presence as softly as possible and take him outside so that he can finish there. When you bring him inside, show him his mess and be as firm as possible and say “No” or “Bad Dog”.
It is helpful to avoid your Dog for some time after that. Show him your disappointment and disapproval by neglecting him. Nothing displeases your dog more than his failed attempts to please you. Do this every time he eliminates inside. Once bereft of love and attention, it will teach your dog that his behavior is unacceptable and he will gradually stop.
Continue training your Dog simultaneously in the correct training techniques.
Note : Puppies are generally prone to disobey. Since they have limited attention span, verbal commands rarely work with them. It is important to make eye contact with puppies while you are training them.
If you discover an accident after it occurred, apply techniques as (2). Unless you make your Dog aware of his mistakes, he will never learn to improve.
Keep in mind:
Never correct your dog too harshly or punish him severely. Your dog is prone to ‘disobey’ out of frightfulness.
Your dog spends quality time with his owner during walks. Avoid giving him the impression that the walk ends as soon as he finishes potty. Continuing walking until you or your dog grows tired.
Puppies are often in the habit of sneaking into places inaccessible to his owner and eliminating there. You may discover an accident long after it occurs or when you see that stain on the carpet or behind the sofa. The only way to deal with puppy training is to keep them under constant supervision. Negligence to show disapproval is never too successful with puppies. They keep busy with more interesting things in the house than pry for your attention all the time.
Note:
Commercial food takes longer to digest and can make your Dog poop more.
Follow a routine with your dog. Decide a time to feed and a time when you let him out. Knowledge combined you can successfully condition your dog.
Always maintain a diary of your dog’s routine, till he is properly trained. This will help you bring training activities into a pattern. Following a method is always beneficial.
To sum up, excellent management, careful supervision, loads of patience and knowledge of correct training methods combined, is your key to successful housetraining.
So gear up and start over! Cheers to a successful training session.
Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog. DogPottyTrain.com one of her sites has the aim to promote public interest in Dogs and convey by all possible means varied house training techniques for adult dogs and puppies. Anybody is free to use the article in their website as long as an acknowledgement is given Nancy Richards' and a link to the site www.dogpottytrain.com
Train your dog even when you do not have time
You need to train your dog, but can never find the time? There s still one more must have item to add to your list. Bun-Gee Pup-EE The Expandable Dog Leash is a first step training tool and one of the more fun and functionally designed products to appear on the market today. Just as important, the Bun-Gee Pup-EE goes a long way when controlling your excited pup. Sound interesting? You bet! It s the best new concept in dog leashes! As you encounter your dog s pull, the Bun-Gee Pup-EE leash stretches just a little but enough to absorb the resistance your pet experiences and helps teach them not to pull, helping you to train your dog! Sometimes you don t even realize the pain your current dog leash is inflicting on you and your pets. The main function of the Bun-Gee Pup-EE is to absorb the shock of a tug or pull relieving the tension from your dog s neck. Made from durable, fabric-covered shock cord, Bun-Gee Pup-EE The Expandable Dog Leash extends in a fashion that makes your walks fun. Still skeptical and not sure if the bungee leash is for you? Well, Bun-Gee pup-EE has been sold for the past 10 years and is used by organizations such as The Guide-Dogs or the Blind UK and the Houston Humane Society of Houston. The reason the bungee leash was invented was to prevent injuries to both the owner and the dog. However, after users of use pet owners claimed that the leash actually trained their dog not to pull. After much consultation and study it was found that if we were to stretch the leash and hold it for several minutes our muscles would be come sore and we would not continue to stretch the leash. The same is found with your pup and that is why the Bun-Gee Pup-EE is called a “1st Step Training Tool” So don t let your dog walk you, use a Bun-Gee Pup-EE and see for yourself!
Kelly Seylar has been taught to help train dogs by dog trainers from around the world. The Bun-Gee Pup-EE Leash is to be used to help assist you in your dog training efforts, but should not be your only method of training. Visit www.bungeepupee.com to find out more.
25 Human Foods That Are Poison To Pets
Recent alerts about unsafe commercial pet foods sounded an alarm among pet owners. Unfortunately, this problem isn t a first occurrence ” or even extremely rare. Incidents similar to this occur from time to time. Perhaps this is one reason more and more pet owners are opting to home cook for their pets. However, in order to properly home-cook for your pets, you should first have a basic knowledge of canine nutrition; and, even more importantly, a thorough knowledge of human foods that are harmful to dogs. Some foods which are safe for human consumption can be poisonous for our canine companions. E-dog-training.com has put together a list of 25 common human foods that are toxic to dogs. Of course, when in doubt, always check with your vet. Here is a list to get you started:
1. Onions (Both onions and garlic contain the toxic ingredient Thiosulphate. But onions are more of a danger. Many dog biscuits contain *small* amounts of garlic ” garlic contains less of this toxin so huge amounts would need to be consumed to be toxic. And, by the way, this poison builds up the system ” it can be toxic in one large dose ” or with repeated consumption of small amounts.)
2. Chocolate (Chocolate contains Theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. This can be fatal to dogs.)
3. Grapes (Grapes are dangerous because of an unknown substance which is toxic to dogs ” affects canine s kidneys)
4. Raisins (See above.)
5. Most Fruit Pits and Seeds (Contain Cyanogenic Glycosides resulting in cyanide poisoning ” though the fruit itself is OK.)
6. Macadamia Nuts (Macadamia nuts contain an unknown substance that is toxic to dogs.)
7. Bones (Most bones should *not* be given (especially chicken bones) because they can splinter and cause laceration of the digestive system and/or become lodged in your pet s throat ” so they also pose a choking hazard.)
8. Potato Peelings and Green Potatoes (Contain Oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)
9. Rhubarb leaves (See above.)
10. Broccoli (Broccoli is only toxic in large quantities.)
11. Green parts of Tomatoes or Green Potatoes (Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)
12. Yeast Dough (Yeast Dough can produce gas and swell in your pet s stomach ” leading to rupture of the digestive system)
13. Coffee, Coffee Grounds, Tea, Soft Drinks (Coffee, tea, & most soft drinks are dangerous due to the caffeine.)
14. Beer/Wine/Alcohol of any kind (Alcohol of any kind could lead to coma or even death.)
15. Human Vitamins (Human vitamins, especially those containing iron, can cause damage to the lining of the digestive system as well as cause kidney and liver damage)
16. Moldy or Spoiled Food (I think this goes without saying.)
17. Persimmons (Persimmons can cause intestinal blockage)
18. Raw Eggs and Raw Fish (Raw eggs and some raw fish can cause Salmonella poisoning.)
19. Salt, Baking Soda, Baking Powder (In large amounts these can cause an electrolyte imbalance ” and severe electrolyte imbalances can lead to muscle spasm or even congestive heart failure.)
20. Mushrooms (Mushrooms may contain toxins which could cause liver and kidney damage)
21. Sugar-Free Foods (Sugar-free foods containing Xylitol have been found to cause liver failure in some dogs.)
22. Nutmeg (Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures, and central nervous system damage.)
23. Excessive Fatty Foods (Excess fatty foods can cause Pancreatitis.)
24. Avocado (All parts of the avocado and avocado tree are toxic to dogs.)
25. Diary Products (Dairy products don t usually pose a great danger; but many dairy product have high fat content (see number 23) ” and many pets are lactose intolerant ” some pets more than others. Lactose intolerance leads to gas and diarrhea; though small amounts of yogurt and cheese are usually fairly well tolerated.)
Keep these 25 toxic foods in mind when cooking for your dog. There may be other foods that your dog can not consume; so always ask your vet when you are unsure about anything concerning your pet ” including being sure you include all ingredients necessary for proper pet nutrition. Visit our website at: http://www.e-dog-training.com for more information.
Visit <http://www.e-dog-training.com> soon for the latest free dog training tips and advice. Full article available at: http://www.e-dog-training.com/HumanFoodsToxicToDogs.html Puppy Training Tips: http://www.e-dog-training.com/Top10PuppyTrainingTips.htmlCopyright 2007 Article may be reprinted and/or distributed if credit/link provided to: http://www.e-dog-training.com
Doggy odor in Labrador Retrievers
Why does a Labrador have doggy odor?
Like any other animal, dogs will walk, run, and play in areas that might result in their gathering dirt, disease, or odor. The Labrador retriever may begin to produce odor due to a number of factors, such as oily skin, dirt accumulation, ear or anal infections, and dental/plaque buildup. Not only can odor be offensive, it can be a sign of an unhealthy retriever. If a Labrador retriever is not monitored, and the sources of doggy odor are not removed, the Labrador retriever will develop chronic physical problems.
What to do About Doggy Odor?
When a Labrador retriever begins to emit doggy odor, closely inspect the dog from head to tail. Check the retriever s ears for debris, red skin, and odor. If an ear infection is present, it could be the result of the dog s ears not being properly ventilated. Ear infections are common in dogs with ears that are floppy or folded over. If the dog s ears are not properly ventilated, the inside becomes moist and warm, and infection can easily result.
Look in the dog s mouth for plaque buildup on the teeth, and for discolored or missing teeth. In addition to the well-known dog breath, additional odor may be coming from the dog s mouth as a result of food buildup and poor oral hygiene. Check the retriever s feet; there may be a cut or infection on the dog s foot pads. This type of injury should be immediately cleaned and bandaged. Run your fingers through the dog s coat, and make sure you inspect all sides of the coat. There may be a concealed skin injury underneath the Labrador s fur. Also, check for an oily or greasy texture appearing on the retriever s coat. The coat might be producing dandruff or the skin may be flaky.
One of the most prominent areas for odor generation is the retriever s backside. There could be anal infection, a buildup of feces on the dog s coat, or the Labrador might be constipated or have diarrhea, both of which will produce significant odor.
As you are inspecting the retriever s body, take detailed notes on what you see, smell, feel, and hear. These notes will become valuable when you take the dog to a veterinarian. Also, it will document signs or symptoms that you might forget to tell the veterinarian.
If your dog is exhibiting odor and is found to have an infection or illness, take proactive measures to protect your Labrador retriever. Take action and make a dog-care schedule for your Labrador.
Dogs need to be kept clean, but caution must be taken not to give the Labrador too many baths. If the dog is bathed every week, the retriever s coat is deprived of natural oils. As a result, over- bathing a Labrador can increase odor. A dog should be bathed once a month.
Part of maintaining a clean home includes washing animal bedding, play toys, and the dog s collar. After washing the Labrador s bedding, make sure that the bedding is completely dry before allowing the dog to sleep on it. If the bedding has been removed from the dryer or brought in from a clothes line, vacuum the bedding with a small hand vacuum; this will remove any debris that was left by the dryer.
A Labrador retriever should be monitored when it goes outside, especially if your home is in a rural and/or wooded area. The dog might be picking up odors from discarded garbage or a dead animal carcass. Odors from rotting food or meat are extremely pungent. Also, they can induce vomiting if eaten. If your Labrador is allowed to go into wooded areas or alleys, follow the dog to see if he is eating carrion or miscellaneous garbage.
When dogs have odor emitting from their teeth or gums, it can be treated with a professional brushing which can include removing plaque from the dog s mouth. Ask the vet about dog treats that are designed to help keep teeth and gums clean. Make teeth inspection a regular part of your dog s cleaning schedule.
When your retriever has been playing in dirt or mud, keep two or three old towels ready to clean the dog s coat. One towel can be put in water and used to clean the dog s coat, and the other towel can remain dry and used to dry the dog s coat. Dogs enjoy physical attention and respond well to having their coats cleaned.
Brushing the retriever on a daily basis helps to reduce smell, remove excess fur, and stimulate new hair growth.
Finally, ask your veterinarian about changing the Labrador s diet. Dog food that contains solid meat promotes healthy skin, teeth, gums, and stools. High-quality food is available through a veterinarian or at large-scale pet shops. When shopping at a pet store, ask the store staff for recommendations.
Animal odors can result from a number of different sources. To make sure that your Labrador retriever is free of odor, it is necessary to perform regular visual checkups. The doggy odor will be removed when the dog s body is inspected thoroughly, cleaned regularly, and taken to the veterinarian for regular checkups.
Learn all about Dog
Adoption from the unique e-book Super Dogs and
Puppies.
If you are searching for odor, learn the reason.
Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog
9 Reasons for Adopting a Senior Cat ” and 6 Reasons for Not Adopting a Kitten
He leaped out of the cage and grabbed me around the shoulders. My shock quickly turned into amazement. He hadn’t sunk his claws into me! My thought was, “This cat definitely knows good manners. Somebody has worked with him.” I looked at the ticket on the cage door. It read, “Morgan, male, age 14.”
Age 14? I hesitated. That was pretty old. I put him back in the cage and walked around the shelter, looking the other cats over. There were many nice ones, as well as a few kittens.
But my mind kept going back to Morgan, and I realized that, in fact, I had bonded with him. Fourteen years notwithstanding, we had become buddies.
THE PLIGHT OF THE SENIOR CAT
One of the saddest things you’ll see in Animal Shelters is the number of older cats waiting for adoption. By and large, people are looking for kittens.
The older cats languish, many from happy homes where they were loved and cared for, but brought into the shelter for some reason known only to the owner and the cat.
Many people, who don’t like older cats, like kittens. Kittens are cute, cuddly, and funny. They make pleasing pets - but lose their “playfulness” when they grow up, and with it the “love” of their owners.
Somebody said that the mark of a true cat lover is to desire to have grown cats over kittens.
A KITTEN ISN’T ALWAYS WHERE IT’S AT
Many people don’t think through the consequences of adopting a kitten, or of taking one or two kittens from the litter a friend is trying to get rid of, or bringing into your home one left on your doorstep.
Here are a few questions you should ask yourself before you adopt a kitten:
1. Taking care of themselves. Kittens are pretty marginal in being able to take care of themselves, especially when it comes to using a litter box. Do you have time to house train your kitten?
2. Young children. Do you have young children in the house? A child of 2 or 3 may inadvertently kill a kitten. Older children need to be taught how to play with them and need to be closely supervised.
3. Other pets. Are you bringing a kitten home to a household with other, older pets? Make certain you have the time to spend introducing and acclimating your pets to the kitten (and vice versa)
4. House dangers. Is there anything dangerous in your house that could harm a kitten? If you are not home during the day, have you made sure your kitten is safe while unsupervised?
5. Adoptions other than from an animal shelter. .If you are adopting a kitten from a friend, or taking one from a mother cat’s litter, are you prepared to neuter or spay the kitten and give her the vaccinations she needs?
6. Vaccinations. A kitten receives all of her vaccinations over a period of time. You should make sure you have the time and interest to get her the full regimen.
ADOPTING THE SENIOR CAT
Somebody said cats are like shoes: one size doesn’t fit all. Still there are some arguably general reasons for adopting a mature cat over a kitten:
1. An older cat is easier to take care of. In fact, to a great extent, an older cat pretty much can take care of itself. Great for the working person who can’t be home during the day.
2. Older cats are generally calmer than younger ones, and adapt more easily to a new environment.
3. Older cats usually come with their vaccinations and spaying or neutering. A kitten, even adopted from a shelter will need a series of vaccinations.
4. Older cats are better with small children than a kitten is. Better to get an older animal that can defend itself.
5. Older cats are usually housebroken. You’ll have to train a kitten.
6. Older cats can feed and take care of themselves whereas a kitten may need your help - not good for a busy working person.
7. An older cat can “hold its own” against the other family pets (like the dog) better than a kitten can. Unless you’re there to defend it, certain life situations aren’t good for a new kitten.
8. Older cats can better handle a move if you relocate your household. The only thing you have to make sure of is that your cat recognizes your new location as “its den” and doesn’t try to return to your old place.
9. And finally - older cats catch mice. In these days of smarter mice that avoid all known mousetraps, a mature cat can be invaluable.
THE JOY OF OWNING A SENIOR CAT
Well, his name was “Morgan”, but I renamed him “Tab” because he had the typical marks of a Tabby. Tab and I eventually learned to respect each other, and he - although a tough old alley cat - eventually enjoyed sitting in my lap having his battered ears stroked.
He lived five more years, and died at the ripe age of 19. During that time he was my companion during two years of unemployment, providing plenty of understanding, comfort, and love.
One day he definitely “earned his keep”. I found a dead rat in the living room, its neck bitten almost in half. The rat was almost as big as Tab was, but he’d wrestled it down and killed it.
So much for adopting kittens. I’d rather take a tough old alley cat any day of the week.
John Young is a write with a scientific and programming background. Discover how to safely and smoothly adopt your new cat in the new ebook, "Your New Cat's First 24 Hours" http://www.yourcatsecrets.com and care for her thereafter.
Doggy odor in Golden Retrievers
Why does a Labrador have doggy odor?
Like any other animal, dogs will walk, run, and play in areas that might result in their gathering dirt, disease, or odor. The Labrador retriever may begin to produce odor due to a number of factors, such as oily skin, dirt accumulation, ear or anal infections, and dental/plaque buildup. Not only can odor be offensive, it can be a sign of an unhealthy retriever. If a Labrador retriever is not monitored, and the sources of doggy odor are not removed, the Labrador retriever will develop chronic physical problems.
What to do About Doggy Odor?
When a Labrador retriever begins to emit doggy odor, closely inspect the dog from head to tail. Check the retriever s ears for debris, red skin, and odor. If an ear infection is present, it could be the result of the dog s ears not being properly ventilated. Ear infections are common in dogs with ears that are floppy or folded over. If the dog s ears are not properly ventilated, the inside becomes moist and warm, and infection can easily result.
Look in the dog s mouth for plaque buildup on the teeth, and for discolored or missing teeth. In addition to the well-known dog breath, additional odor may be coming from the dog s mouth as a result of food buildup and poor oral hygiene. Check the retriever s feet; there may be a cut or infection on the dog s foot pads. This type of injury should be immediately cleaned and bandaged. Run your fingers through the dog s coat, and make sure you inspect all sides of the coat. There may be a concealed skin injury underneath the Labrador s fur. Also, check for an oily or greasy texture appearing on the retriever s coat. The coat might be producing dandruff or the skin may be flaky.
One of the most prominent areas for odor generation is the retriever s backside. There could be anal infection, a buildup of feces on the dog s coat, or the Labrador might be constipated or have diarrhea, both of which will produce significant odor.
As you are inspecting the retriever s body, take detailed notes on what you see, smell, feel, and hear. These notes will become valuable when you take the dog to a veterinarian. Also, it will document signs or symptoms that you might forget to tell the veterinarian.
If your dog is exhibiting odor and is found to have an infection or illness, take proactive measures to protect your Labrador retriever. Take action and make a dog-care schedule for your Labrador.
Dogs need to be kept clean, but caution must be taken not to give the Labrador too many baths. If the dog is bathed every week, the retriever s coat is deprived of natural oils. As a result, over- bathing a Labrador can increase odor. A dog should be bathed once a month.
Part of maintaining a clean home includes washing animal bedding, play s, and the dog s collar. After washing the Labrador s bedding, make sure that the bedding is completely dry before allowing the dog to sleep on it. If the bedding has been removed from the dryer or brought in from a clothes line, vacuum the bedding with a small hand vacuum; this will remove any debris that was left by the dryer.
A Labrador retriever should be monitored when it goes outside, especially if your home is in a rural and/or wooded area. The dog might be picking up odors from discarded garbage or a dead animal carcass. Odors from rotting food or meat are extremely pungent. Also, they can induce vomiting if eaten. If your Labrador is allowed to go into wooded areas or alleys, follow the dog to see if he is eating carrion or miscellaneous garbage.
When dogs have odor emitting from their teeth or gums, it can be treated with a professional brushing which can include removing plaque from the dog s mouth. Ask the vet about dog treats that are designed to help keep teeth and gums clean. Make teeth inspection a regular part of your dog s cleaning schedule.
When your retriever has been playing in dirt or mud, keep two or three old towels ready to clean the dog s coat. One towel can be put in water and used to clean the dog s coat, and the other towel can remain dry and used to dry the dog s coat. Dogs enjoy physical attention and respond well to having their coats cleaned.
Brushing the retriever on a daily basis helps to reduce smell, remove excess fur, and stimulate new hair growth.
Finally, ask your veterinarian about changing the Labrador s diet. Dog food that contains solid meat promotes healthy skin, teeth, gums, and stools. High-quality food is available through a veterinarian or at large-scale pet shops. When shopping at a pet store, ask the store staff for recommendations.
Animal odors can result from a number of different sources. To make sure that your Labrador retriever is free of odor, it is necessary to perform regular visual checkups. The doggy odor will be removed when the dog s body is inspected thoroughly, cleaned regularly, and taken to the veterinarian for regular checkups.
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Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog
dog adoption costs
Before you decide to bring a dog home, it is absolutely essential that you give some thought to the costs that you will be incurring in the process. It s not the purchase alone, though even that is likely to be expensive in the case of some superior breeds of dogs, but also the cost of the equipments you will have to buy to make your home habitable for your pet. Then there are the visits to the vet, which have to be regularly made, and the expensive vaccinations, which the puppy has to be given. So, all in all, you will have to make pretty sure that your wallet can take the beating before you bring your doggy home.
What then, are the costs, and how much are they? Let s start at the beginning. You have to buy the dog unless you are lucky enough to have it presented to you by a friend or a family member and the cost of this initial purchase can vary very widely. The variance will firstly depend on the type of dog you are buying. A purebred companion only puppy usually starts from around $800 but can go up to astronomical amounts for rare or exotic breeds. If you prefer to adopt a non-purebred variety from a shelter, it will cost you from around $150 to $300.
Costs also differ in different geographic locations so it is difficult for us to tell you of one fixed sum that you will have to pay for any given variety of dog. Visit the sources in your locality from where people normally buy dogs and check on the prices. And this includes the internet. After some queries on your part, you will be able to come to a fix on what your desired dog costs.
Now that you ve got your dog, it s time to look at the other costs you will have to start to incur. Let s start with the one - time costs.
One Time Costs Average Cost
Fence $300 - $1500
Bowls $25
Collar $6
Training Collar $10
Leash $12
Bed $40
Crate $100
Brush/Grooming tools $20
Shampoo/ Coat care $15
Neuter/ Spay ( Based on weight ) $300
Microchip $50
Then there are the annual costs, which you have to be prepared for. I enumerate them below:
Vaccinations $185
Heartworm Test $35
Heartworm Preventive $65
Flea/Tick Preventive $120
Food $480
Toys/Treats $45
Tag $5
And then there are other costs:
Boarding ” per day ( with 2 playtimes ) $25
Grooming ” per time $50
Training classes ( Per 6-8 classes ) $100
Individual training ( Per session ) $100
And remember, this list is for grown up dogs and not puppies. If it s a puppy you are adopting, the costs increase. There s a check up, a series of 4 sets of vaccines, worming, heartworm tests, all of which will cost you close to $300. Then there is puppy food, which will set you back around $450 and toys/treats, which will cost approximately $65.
So, as you will have counted up from the figures given above, in the first year, you will be spending approximately $1500 to $2500 over and above the cost of buying your dog. After the first year, you will spend less per year ” about $1000. Smaller dogs cost a bit less and larger dogs cost more.
Apart from all this, your dog will have lifelong healthcare needs. There will be shots and medicines you will be administering as preventive care and there will almost certainly be unexpected accidents, injuries or illnesses, however well you look after your dog.
It is therefore utterly essential that you objectively evaluate your budget and come to a decision as to whether you can really afford a dog. He will look to you for your support in all things and you owe it to him to give him, not only your love, but proper care, food and medical attention. These don t come free ” so ask yourself whether you can afford to get that dog you always wanted. If you realize that you can t, it s best to do without, both for your sake and his.
Anybody is free to use the article in their website as long as an acknowledgement is given Nancy Richards' and a link to the site www.traindogsandpuppies.com
Keeping Your Pit Bull Away From Fights With Other Dogs
Even if you feel confident that your Pit Bull and your other dogs are getting along well, it is still wise to separate them when you are not around to supervise. Little fights can and do happen, no matter how great they are getting along. Spats can occur over possession and control of toys or one dog can irritate the other, which can lead to a violent fight. Unlike humans, dogs cannot choose to be polite and back off during a disagreement so do not give them a chance to get a fight started. All dogs and especially your Pit Bull have the potential to get into a violent fight. The difference between your two breeds is that your Pit Bull was bred for many generations to win them. Even if you are successful in maintaining peace between your Pit Bull and your other dog, it is more difficult to control aggression between your Pit Bull and strange dogs, particularly if you have a male Pit Bull. Although neutering your dogs help prevent aggression, it is never a guaranteed cure. The most effective solution is to always use a leash when walking your Pit Bull and try to avoid other dogs as much as possible. Also, when taking your male Pit Bull out for a walk, do not allow him to urinate on trees or any objects that are sitting along your path. Doing so allow him to claim that object as his territory and is more likely to defend it. In addition, you need to train your dog the basic commands including the come , stay , and sit commands. And do not forget to carry some dog treats with you. Every time your dog sees another dog, have him perform these commands and reward him right after the exercise. Never wait for him to act aggressively to the other dog to give your commands. This will only make him think that you are rewarding him for his aggressive actions. Many dog owners try to stop their dog s aggressive behaviors by speaking to them softly and petting them. This practice is usually not effective because it only gives the dog the impression that what he is doing is an acceptable behavior. In addition, speaking to him in a gentle voice encourages him to be aggressive. On the other hand, you should not scream and yell either. Doing so will give your dog the message that you are including yourself in the fight and are also attacking the other dog. For the same reason, do not run to the other dog or your Pit Bull will think that you are starting to attack and your dog will be more than happy to join you. Keeping in mind about your Pit Bull s origin can help you control him and prevent aggressive behavior from ever surfacing. Remember, a confident Pit Bull has no motive to start a fight and most of them get along very well with other pets. In fact, Pit Bulls are among the most responsive of dogs. With proper and positive training, you will be able to control your dog s aggressive behavior because there is nothing more important to him than obeying his owner s commands. Article Written By J. Foley http://travelguy.typepad.com/just_about_dogs
John Foley,Dog Trainer, Dog Walker & Dog Sitter. If I can Answer Any Questions You Have. Email me jackstunes2003@yahoo.com http://travelguy.typepad.com/just_about_dogs
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