Sick Betta Fish - Oh No, What Do I Do With My Sick Betta Fish?

Sick Betta Fish - Oh No, What Do I Do With My Sick Betta Fish?
Do you have a sick Betta fish? Not sure what to do? Don’t fear just yet, there are things you need to know in order to help your sick Betta Fish.

Breeding for Beginners
Probably the most rewarding thing about tropical fish keeping is watching young fish grow from birth to adult size. You can take immense pride in achieving this, but is particularly true for the more difficult species to breed. However beginners should be wary of jumping in at the deep end (so to speak).

Tips on Horse Nutrition
You may love your horse, you may care for it, and you may love to ride it but if you don’t know how to properly feed it, your horse may not care for you. Nutrition is important to any animal on earth and even more important for a large and useful animal such as your horse. If your horse is to be useful to you and to your farm, whether you make it work or whether you ride it, knowing how to feed it and what it eats best is key in keeping your horse healthy. This page will give you a few tips on your horse’s nutrition. One of the most important parts of a horse’s digestive system is the teeth. The teeth are the gateway to a complex digestive system and so without properly maintained teeth, the horse will not feed well and thus will not be healthy. Horses are grazing animals and when left alone will feed constantly for about 16 hours a day. This takes a toll on the horse’s teeth heavier than our food does on ours. This means horse teeth must be maintained well. Also, because horses cannot vomit, ensuring that their teeth are well maintained avoids swallowing bulky pieces of food which may lead to choking. Horses love feeding on legumes such as clover, alfalfa and also on grass. Legumes are naturally rich in calcium and phosphorous. Alfalfa, in fact, contains a lot of calcium and phosphorus and should be fed to the horse cautiously. Horses feed on grasses such as bluegrass. Horses will also feed well on hay, which is a combination of legumes and grasses, which have been dried. Try to make hay available every time so horses can nibble on it when they need to. Studying and knowing your horse’s nutrition is important to the well-being and health of your horse. Come visit our website where you will find the horse supplies that fit your needs. We are available 12 hours a day on business days and we can take your order online, by mail, or by fax. Visit us at www.tacktrunks.net or call 1-908-294-3418.

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Learn More About Pet Health And What You Can Do To Improve It
If you own a pet, you know how frustrating it can be when they get sick and nothing seems to get them better. Visits to the vet, drugs, pills, shampoos … it seems as though they will be sick forever. The problem usually lies in their food. Nutrition, or lack thereof, is the number one factor that determines a pet’s health. Store bought commercial pet food lacks almost all the nutrients that pets need. To make matters worse, they are loaded with toxic chemicals, synthetic preservatives, and discarded animal parts that you would never knowingly give your beloved pet. Even ‘premium’ store bought pet foods lack the proper nutrition that your pet requires. They also usually contain most of the same dangerous chemicals that the cheaper brands do. It’s all about slick marketing and advertising. Unfortunately, once again, it’s all about the money. However, there is hope. There are a handful of companies that really do care about your precious pup or fuzzy feline. They manufacture top quality, human grade, natural and organic pet foods that have everything your little friend needs, and nothing they don’t. The best part is that they usually don’t cost much more than the store brands, sometimes even less. Because they are so nutrient dense, you normally will feed your pet less because they won’t need as much in their bowl. This makes every bag last longer and will actually save you money. Even the best pet foods usually lack a few vitamins, minerals, or important nutrients. This is where nutritional supplements come in. There is a very wide range of products available and you need to know exactly what you are buying. Consulting a pet nutritionist or holistic veterinarian is usually a good idea if you plan on treating your pet without drugs. There are specific alternative remedies for every condition or ailment out there. Most are very effective. Do a little research on the Internet for organic or natural pet food, nutritional supplements, holistic or homeopathic pet remedies, etc. You will see thousands of resources listed, but the top 4 or 5 will usually be reputable companies that can be trusted. The more you read, the more you will learn and can then make informed decisions about the health and nutrition of your pet.

Learn about <a href="http://www.healthy-pet-supplies.com">pet health</a> and how healthy, natural pet food and supplements can help. Holistic remedies and natural alternatives provided.

How to keep a healthy and happy bearded dragon!
Bearded dragons are becoming the most popular exotic pet to have in the 21st century! They are very interactive and love attention from humans. Bearded dragons are great pets for adults or children, and are often used in schools as class pets. A Bearded dragon takes up much less space than a dog or cat and is much less messy. I have composed a basic care sheet covering the major areas involved with keeping a happy and healthy bearded dragon. Hatchlings can be kept in as small as a 20 gallon long aquarium. Soon they will outgrow that and move to a larger aquarium/cage. Adult bearded dragons must have a minimum of a 40 gallon cage, preferably 50 gallon or larger. You can line the cage with new paper, paper towels, or reptile carpet. However we prefer to use Wheat bran as a substrate instead. Simply put an inch of wheat bran in the bottom of the cage. The reason is that if you dragon accidentally injests some, it is easily digestable. Some people use washed play sand as a substrate, but this can cause deadly intestinal impactions. For this reason we don’t suggest using play sand. Bearded dragons need a full spectrum (UVB) light as well as a basking light. You can use a Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 UVB reptile bulb, or the exo-terra Reptiglo 8.0 for a full spectrum light. For the basking site you need a basking (UVA) lamp available at pet stores. You can keep track of when you UVB bulbs need to be replace with a UVB meter. This will save you money by not replacing your bulbs early. Also this will make sure that you bulbs are still giving off enough life sustaining UVB for your bearded dragon. Get a timer and set it for 12-14 hours of light. Both the basking light and the UVB light need to be set to go on and off with the timer. Remember bearded dragons must be able to thermo-regulate. That means they alter their temperature by going from the basking spot at the hot end of the cage to the cool side of the cage. This allows them to properly digest their food and also cool off when necessary. Make sure that you place the basking site at one end of the cage, not in the middle. The important thing with the basking lamp is that directly under it at the basking site the temperature reaches 100-110 F within an hour. Place a reptile thermometer directly on the rock or stick they will be perching on to bask. If the temperature is too low get a larger wattage lamp or lower the lamp an inch or two and try again. If the temperature is too high then get a lower wattage lamp or raise the light an inch or two from the basking site. Now you need to make sure that the cool side of the cage is around 80-85 Ferenheit or less. If your bearded dragon can’t cool off they can dehydrate and die. If it isn’t warm enogh under the basking site, your dragon can’t properly digest their food. Therefore it is essential that your temperatures are set correctly. NO MEAL WORMS! Bearded dragons need the correct size crickets for the size dragon you have. The crickets can’t be longer than the width between the eyes of your dragon. Too large of prey can harm or even kill your dragon. Hatchlings eat crickets 3-4 times per day starting an hour after the lights come on. Juvenile dragons eat 1-2 times per day, and adults eat once per day. Every day dust the crickets with rep-cal calcium supplement and use herpavite once a week. Also offer a variety of finely chopped greens for hatchlings once a day, i.e.. mustard greens, collard greens, romaine lettice, leaf lettice. For juvenile to adult bearded dragons chop into 1/4 inch pieces and you can add frozen vegetables, or fresh fruit chopped into bite-size peaces mixed in with their greens. Remember that only a little vegetables or fruit mixed with the greens. To keep your dragon hydrated give them a bath 1-2 times per week. You can use a rubbermaid container, fill with luke warm water up to the the dragons shoulders, or only up to their knees for babies. Also you can mist your dragon on the head once per day. Mist and then wait a few seconds. Then mist again and until they drink, mist until they stop licking. It is extremely important to keep your bearded dragons hydrated to insure their health. Follow these simple guidelines to keep your bearded dragon happy and healthy for years to come. It is extremely important to make sure your setup is correct before getting a bearded dragon. Check to see that your basking temperature is correct, and also that the cool end of the cage is cool enough. Keep your dragon hydrated with weekly baths. Also make sure you feed the correct sized crickets, and feed your dragon fresh leafy greens daily. Thank you for take the best care possible of your bearded dragons.

Mr. Jason Couch is the author of the article above. With over 5 years of experience he is recognized as an expert in the reptile industry. For more information visit his website: http://www.beardeddragons.biz

Bubble, Glubble, I Am Not Trouble
I don’t know how long I’ve been swimming in this little tank, but I’m getting tired. You see, it’s the same old view, same old people, and same old food. This is boooring! I’ve seen a lot of those people types come and go.

10 Most Important Tips To Training Your Puppies
All of us dream of parenting the perfect dog, a pup that is a CGC or canine good citizen and is well behaved and dependable at all times. Well dreams do come true if the training is done with care and dedication. Remember pups learn from day one and need to be taught what is right, what is wrong, and proper socialization. Pups are like children, they need constant supervision and training. Training a pup need not be an ordeal all you need to keep in mind are a few simple rules: Until your pup learns you need to keep an eye on him at all times. When you cannot then you must crate him. Create a schedule for the pup this will help the pup settle down quickly. The schedule must include things like hourly bath rooming visits, eating times, rest periods, walks, play time, training, and so on. A pup that has a busy day has no time to be bored and get into mischief. Teach the pup to respect you. Dogs live in packs and instinctively follow a leader. If you establish your leadership in no uncertain terms then training will become easy as the pup will obey you at all times and not challenge your authority. Use only positive training methods. Never shout at, hit, or punish a dog. It is not just cruel but can lead to behavioral problems. Use of electric shocks, prong collars, sprays, and so on could hurt the animal. Teach the pup nothing in life is free. This is a system that is widely acknowledged as a useful training tool. If you practice this, the pup will learn that to get something like love, a walk, or treat, he must behave well. Teach the meaning of No, from day one. Do not encourage behaviors like jumping, mouthing, tug-o-war, barking, or running out of open gates and doors. Praise good behavior and ignore or walk away when there is bad behavior. The pup will learn that if he misbehaves he will loose his companion/playmate. To correct a behavior you must catch the pup in the act and startle him by rattling a can of pebbles. Once you have done this make him correct his behavior and immediately offer him a treat and praise. Pups do not recall what happened earlier so scolding him after an event is of no use. Always call/use his name positively. Never say Bad TOM, or No Tom, this will cause confusion and the pup will think that if you call his name then it is something bad. The pup must associate his name with happy events like hugs, petting, walks, treats, and such. If this happens he will come willingly when you call out his name. Create a training schedule that is short and sweet say 10 minutes thrice a day. Long repetitive lessons can be boring and the pup will loose interest in learning. Make learning fun and use trick training to teach commands like sit, down, come and so on. Bond with the pup and both of you will enjoy your lessons. The pup must look forward to spending time with you and not avoid you by running away or hiding. Be sure to socialize the pup early. Socialization is one of the most important lessons. The pup must learn to be around other animals, people, sounds, vehicles, and other activities. So, slowly introduce the pup when he is little to everyday activities and sounds. Take him to the mall/ park, introduce him to children and other pets, and make him unafraid of the vacuum and garden hose. Learn all about crate training, leash walking, house breaking, as well as food training. These are kindergarten lessons that every pup must master. Know about all the idiosyncrasies as well as peculiarities of the breed this will give you valuable insights on how to successfully train the pup. As a pet-parent you have many choices. You could choose to train the dog yourself or register at a professional training school. Training a dog has many stages: kindergarten, obedience training, doggy sports, showing and conformation, as well as other aspects like therapy dogs, hearing dogs, and so on. What level you choose to train depends on you as well as the learning abilities of your dog. As you know, different dogs like humans have varied talents. Choose well and both you and your pup will have fun times together.

Paul Wilson is a freelance writer for http://www.1888Discuss.com/pet/ , the premier REVENUE SHARING discussion forum for Pet Forum including topics on pet health, pet care and nutrition, grooming pet at home, dog, cat's health issues and more. He also freelances for the premier Data Recovery site http://www.1888DataRecovery.com

Rabbits Diet: Is your rabbit eating right?
The typical diet for a pet rabbit consists of water, hay, pellets, fresh vegetables, and its own caecal pellets. Fruit and other treats are given only in very limited quantities, as they can cause obesity in a rabbit. Rabbits require a constant water supply as they dehydrate quickly.

Most sources recommend 80% of the diet should be Timothy hay or another grass hay. Too many vegetables in a rabbit’s diet typically leads to diarrhea and other digestive problems.

Pellets

Rabbits are generally fed a pelleted feed available from pet stores, supermarkets, and farm suppliers. Pellets were originally designed for rabbit breeders for the purpose of providing as much food energy and vitamins as inexpensively as possible. This is optimal when the rabbits are being bred for food or for experimentation.

Most sources recommend a minimum of 18% fiber, low protein (14?15%), and less than 1% calcium. Depending on the amount of vegetables available, an adult rabbit should be given between 20 ml to 40 ml per kilogram (? and ? cup of pellets per 6 pounds) body weight daily. Pre-adolescent and adolescent rabbits (7 months and younger) can be given as much pelleted diet as they can consume, although additional vegetables are preferable to additional pellets. An older rabbit (over six years) can be given more pellets if they are having difficulty maintaining a steady body weight. Timothy hay-based pellets are great for rabbits that have stopped growing and do not need to gain weight. Alfalfa-based pellets are best only for young, growing rabbits or older rabbits who are under-weight.

Hay

Hay is essential for the health of all rabbits. A steady supply of hay will help prevent gastrointestinal stasis and other digestive tract problems in rabbits. Additionally, it provides a number of necessary vitamins and minerals at a low food energy cost. Rabbits enjoy chewing on hay, and always having hay available for the rabbit may reduce its tendency to chew on other items. Timothy hay and other grass hays are considered the healthiest to provide the rabbit. As a persistently high blood calcium level can prove harmful to the rabbit, hays such as alfalfa and clover hay should be avoided. Alfalfa is also relatively high in food energy, and a constant diet of it can cause obesity in rabbits.

Treats

Treats are unhealthy in large quantities for rabbits, just as they are for humans. Most treats sold in pet stores are filled with sugar and high food energy carbohydrates. If an owner is determined to feed the rabbit treats, the best treat to provide it with is fruit.

Acceptable fruits (seeds and pits MUST be removed): Banana, Mango, Pineapple, Peach, Apple, Kiwi, Berries, Orange and other citrus fruits.

Pineapple, mango, and papaya all contain a natural enzyme which is thought to reduce hairballs.

Fruits or other treats must be given in moderation, as rabbits easily become overweight and suffer health problems. Their diet should consist of no more than half a tablespoon of fruits or treats per day.

However, fresh fruits should not be given to rabbits under the age of 4 months because their digestive systems are not always developed enough to handle the fruit. It can cause enteritis that causes death within 48 hours.

While a common myth that rabbits should be given lettuce, this is not a good idea because it contains little to no nutritional value for the rabbit and again can cause enteritis which leads to a quick death.

Caecal pellets

Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eat some of his feces. These are called cecal pellets, and are a vital part of his diet. Caecal pellets are soft, smelly, clumpy feces, and are a rabbit’s only supply of Vitamin B12. Due to the design of the rabbit’s digestive system, they cannot extract some vitamins and minerals directly from their food. At the end of their digestive system is an area called the caecum where cellulose and other plant fibers are broken down and ferment. After they have been broken down and passed, a rabbit’s digestive system can finally extract the vitamins from them.

Hagar lagarto is a long time Pet lover with many articles and websites on the subject.You can get much more info at <a href=http://pet.freehostia.com>http://pet.freehostia.com</a>

Animal Assisted Therapy
The term “animal assisted therapy” is to be distinguished from the more familiar practice of “animal assisted activities”, which refers generally to pet visitation at hospitals and residential care facilities.

Animal Assisted Therapy is part of a formal and carefully designed treatment program with specific and measurable objectives that matches one animal to one patient. Under the guidance of a trained medical professional, patients with severe mental and/or physical disabilities are encouraged to interact with a “therapy dog” under the supervision of a trained dog handler.

The patient’s interaction with the dog is increased gradually. Initially, the patient may merely observe the dog or touch it. As the patient becomes more responsive and confident, activities may include brushing, attaching collars and even walking the dog. Progress records are maintained as milestones are met and exceeded.

Studies have shown that therapy pets motivate people to participate in therapeutic interactions. Dogs are not judgmental, they don’t hassle or pressure their partner and they have endless patience. Further, simply because they are animals and require care, the patient grooming them or walking them is made to feel useful.

The benefits and expectations of animal assisted activities, or pet visits, vary according to the needs and conditions of the patients being visited. Pet visits are less formal; they do not follow a particular treatment plan or schedule and they are not usually set up on a one pet to one patient scenario.

Pet visits are common to hospitals, assisted living homes and nursing homes. They are often nothing more than a way to entertain people or to change their routine and brighten their day.

On the other hand, when visited by a pet some people who have basically shut themselves off from human interaction will begin to work their way back to reality. Apparently the pet stirs emotions in them that have been lying dormant. Examples have been given where patients who have not spoken a word in over a year will begin to talk to the visiting dog.

Now that pet therapy has become a proven and documented reality, institutions are beginning to capitalize on this phenomenon with the “resident pet.” This term refers to a cat or a dog that becomes a permanent resident of a particular facility and is usually given free run of the place.

Each resident benefits from a proprietary interest in the animal and looks forward to assisting in its care. In some cases, a full course of therapy has been designed around the care and feeding of a resident pet. The residents meet to discuss what must be done and develop their own charts and schedules to accommodate the pet’s needs. However, staff must be constantly on the alert to avoid problems of jealousy and feuds over the pet’s affections.

The attributes and characteristics that comprise a good visiting dog or therapy dog have more to do with temperament than training. Not to say that the dog will not need training in basic obedience, but that is normally sufficient except in extraordinary situations.

Patients and residents react to the dogs in a variety of ways. Some are effusive, some impulsive and others are shy. Therefore, the dogs must be ready for anything. It surely wouldn’t do for a dog to lunge away or growl if a patient makes a loud noise or reaches for them abruptly. When selecting a dog for these purposes you would not necessarily want an animal that is high strung or one that is too laid back to get up and socialize.

Numerous studies have documented the benefits of pet therapy. Pets have been used in treating AIDS patients, cancer patients, the elderly and the mentally ill. One study determined that petting a dog can lower blood pressure and another found that pets can reduce stress related illnesses.

A study at City Hospital in New York noted that heart patients who owned pets lived longer than those without pets. Owning a pet was found to be more significant to long term survival than the presence of even a spouse or friends.

Pets make us feel good. They comfort us, allow us to be ourselves and give those of us that need it a reason for living. Please visit my website for more great information at http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com

Chris Suckow lives and works in Los Angeles CA http://www.free-online-veterinarian-advice.com

The Nitrogen Cycle and Your Aquarium
The Nitrogen Cycle is not unique to aquaria; nitrification will occur in any body of water, or soil, where bacterial action breaks down decaying organic matter and converts it into ammonia. Ammonia compounds are then oxidized into nitrite and nitrates.

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